Ferrata Bolver-Lugli

This mountaineering itinerary not only features the ascent to Cima Vezzana, which proud of its 3,192 m asl is the highest of the Dolomites of the Pala Group, but it does so by climbing along the most popular Via Ferrata of the Pala Group (on the most iconic peak): the Ferrata Bolver-Lugli, also known as the Ferrata del Cimóne.

This itinerary climbs towards the summit of Cima Vezzana, by initially featuring the Via Ferrata Bolver-Lugli, which leads directly to the bivouac named Bivacco Fiamme Gialle, then it ascends to the top from the S side of Vezzana. The route is described in its entirety with departure and arrival by the village of San Martino di Castrozza, although it is worth highlighting that it is possible to shorten it using the Colverde – Rosetta cable car both during the ascent (San Martino – Rifugio Colverde) and during the descent (Rosetta – San Martino).

The route starts from San Martino di Castrozza, at the base camp of the Colverde – Rosetta cable car. The first section develops along the path which, starting from the SE side of the base camp, roughly follows the cable car line that leads to the hut of Rifugio Colverde, with an initial stretch on the Colverde ski slope. After a few hundred meters the always well maintained and signposted path under the cable car, although supported by small hairpin bends, becomes steeper.

Once reached Rifugio Colverde (1,965 m asl), the route proceeds by taking the Signpost No. 712 on the SE part of the building towards “Sentiero dei Finanzieri” / Ferrata Bolver-Lugli. After a short uphill stretch in a typically Dolomite rocky environment, the route leaves the Signpost No. 712 (which continues on the left towards Malga Fosse di Sopra) to continue on the track of the Signpost No. 706 which quickly leads to the start of the Via Ferrata Bolver-Lugli.

The Via Ferrata Bolver-Lugli develops on the SW side of the peak of Cimón de la Pala. Although not considered technically difficult, the Bolver-Lugli has some particularly exposed traits; moreover, given its length (about 2 hours), the ascent requires a considerable physical effort. The first section of the Bolver-Lugli is simple and does not require any technical skills, while the second becomes more challenging, with exposed vertical sections and some interesting passages from both a landscape and a technical point of view.

During the whole climb that leads first to the so-called Spalla del Cimóne and then to Cima Vezzana the scenery is simply incredible, with a sight that extends to the S over the whole Val di Primiero and – from W to E – on the mountain groups of Passo Rolle, Val di Fiemme, Val di Fassa, Latemar, Catinaccio, Marmolada, Civetta and Vette Feltrine.

Once by the bivouac of Fiamme Gialle (3,005 m asl), located in a panoramic position on the SE shoulder of Cimón de la Pala, the path (the only one that is marked) leads, losing altitude, to the gap of Passo del Travignolo (2,925 m asl), which acts as a connection between Val dei Cantóni – which will be covered after the ascent on the Vezzana – and the vertical Valle del Travignolo, which plunges into the beautiful Val Venegia. From Passo del Travignolo, the route goes up the S side of the Vezzana, particularly gravelly, approaching Cima Vezzana (3,192 m asl). The summit is the highest of the entire Pale di San Martino Group and rises at the beginning of the northern chain, overlooking the glacier of Travignolo with an impressive wall that divides it from the opposite and more famous Cimón de la Pala. The first ascension to Vezzana is documented by the British Douglas William Freshfield and Charles Comyns Tucker, who in 1878 had left with the intention of studying better the Cimón de la Pala, wrongly considered the highest peak at the time.

From the summit of Cima Vezzana the path would continue towards Bivacco Brunner; however, this itinerary heads back to Rifugio Rosetta, initially going backwards along the track that leads back to Passo del Travignolo. During this short stretch, from the small saddle above Passo del Travignolo, with a detour of 10-15 minutes, it is also possible to reach to the S another peak called Cima del Nuvolo (3,075 m asl). From Passo del Travignolo, the route proceeds descending along the Signpost No. 716; in this stretch it’s worth mentioning that you need to pay attention in some passages, where you can find snow even in late summer. At the end of the descent, the path of the Signpost No. 716 goes up to the right – towards SW – towards the gap of Passo Bettega (2,658 m asl). From Passo Bettega, the path descends again slightly, for then maintaining the contour until it reaches the hut of Rifugio Rosetta, on the lunar scenario offered by the Pala Group Plateau.

From the plateau, and more precisely from the gap of Passo di Rosetta, the Signpost No. 701 starts the long descent, first towards Rifugio Colverde, then towards San Martino di Castrozza, thus allowing the return to the starting point.

Paths

• From the village of San Martino di Castrozza, at the base camp of the Colverde – Rosetta cable car, take the path towards Rifugio Colverde [1h 00],
• From the hut of Rifugio Colverde (1,965 m asl), climb along the Signpost No. 712 towards Sentiero dei Finanzieri / Ferrata Bolver-Lugli, then continue on the Signpost No. 706 until the start of the Via Ferrata Bolver-Lugli [1h 45],
• Climb up the Via Ferrata Bolver-Lugli until reaching the bivouac named Bivacco Fiamme Gialle [3h 45],
• From Bivacco Fiamme Gialle (3,005 m asl), proceed along the only path up to the crossing of the gap of Passo del Travignolo (2,925 m asl), then ascend by following the track towards the summit of Cima Vezzana [5h 00],
• From Cima Vezzana (3,192 m asl), head back to Passo del Travignolo, then proceed downhill along the Signpost No. 716 towards Passo Bettega / Rifugio Rosetta [6h 15],
• From Passo Bettega (2,658 m asl), head towards the hut of Rifugio Rosetta, then take the Signpost No. 701 towards Rifugio Colverde / San Martino di Castrozza, until you return to the starting point [8h 00]. ✓